Article of jewelry and method for making same



cab 19, 1943. 1. ROSKIN 2,332,344

ARTICLE OF JEWELRY AND METHOD FOR MAKING SAME Filed Aug. 22, 1941 QED) INVENTOR. 735F451 PUSH/N m $4 Afro/9N is enhanced.

modified iormof my invention;

Patented Oct. 19, 1943 srAr KING SAME Israel Roskin, New:York, N. ,Y.- g 1 Application AugtistZZ, 1941,, Serial No. 4.0mm

:. cans. 631-151 This invention relates to jewelry and to a method for-making the same.

One of the objects otmy invention is to provide an article of jewelry; suchas a-r'ing, having novel setting means for retaining ornamental elements and more particularly ornamental elements of a fragile nature, such as pearls orthinwalled objects. I I

Another object of my invention is to provide "an article of jewelry of the character described having no visible individual settingmeans for the separate ornamental elements, whereby the beauty and decorative effect of these. elements Afurther object of my invention is to provide an article of jewelry 01' the character described having; a reflecting background which is visible around substantially the entire periphery o'f'e'ach oi. the apparently unsupportedornamental ob- An additional object or my invention 131a. projvide an improved method of setting a plurality of fragile ornamental elements in alignment in an article of jewelry without subjecting them to compression. J I a 1 Other objects of this invention will. inppart be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.

The invention accordingly consists; inthe features of construction, combinations of elements,

and arrangementoflparts' which will be exemplified in the construction-hereinafter described, and of which the scopeof application will be in- .dicatediin'the claims. V

In the accompanying. drawing, in whichare.

shown various possible embodiments of this invention,

Fig. l is'a' side-view'in partial section or axin embodying my invention with a portionthereof cut away to show the pearls comprising the ornamental elements;

Fig. 2. is aside view of said ri g; Fig. 3' an enlarged sectional view taken-substantially along the line 3-3 'of Fig, 1;,

1 Fig. 4 is a view in partial section showing. a step-in preparing the; ornamentahelements for mounting in ;a ring; r Figs. 5, 6 and 7=are seotionalzviews of theseparate parts of the ring before assembly;

Figs. 8 and 9 are fragmentary sectional views showing successivestepsin assembling the ring Fig.:.l0 vis a fragmentary sectional-view showing a step in .assembling a ring-embodying a Fig. 11 is. a fragmentary sectional'view of a ring. embodying thin-walled' hollow ornamental elements;

Fig.. 12 is an enlarged perspectiveview of one of the ornainantalelements shown inFig ll;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 11 of a ring employing. laminar. ornamental elements; and 7 Fig. 14 'is an enlarged perspectiveyiew'of one .of the ornamental elements shown in Fig. 13.

In general, I' accomplish the objects of my invention by providing an article of jewelry in which the ornamental objects. are strung together'i'n abutting relationship and are disp'osed on an elongated supporting'su'rfa'ce provided with flanges along its longitudinal edges; at least one of which flanges is non integral with the supportingsurface and is suitably held Referring now-to the drawing, and more par- F 'ticularly to Figs. 1 through 3, "I have there shown a ring-2o embodyingmy invention. fsaidmin g comprises'a plurality'of small'pearlsfzl .ot a substantially uniform I spherical outline. 1: Each or the pearls is provided with a diametric aperture 22 through which is threaded a fle'xible string '23 whose ends are permanently joined to.- gether, as by twisting, to form a continuous unjbr'okenloo'p of pearls. The stringis' iab'ricated from 'a material, such as stainlessst'eel,silver or the like, which has an appreciabletensile strength is. nongcorrosive. P Theloop of strung pearls is disposed 'fr'he loop of pearls and the channeled member 24 are so proportioned thatthe inner circumference of the loop is of the same. lengthas the circumference of the outer surface ofthe channel v base 25, and the space between-the. fianges 26 and 21 equal to the diameter ofth'e -pearlszl. The loop is thus firmly-anchored in the chan neled member againstftranslatory :movement normal to the flanges 26 and 2'1 and base 25, although the pearls arefree to rotate around-the string '23 and revolve about their own axes to permit cleaning and for other purposes.

Both'the flanges 26. and 2,1 are non-integral with, the base 25, being permanently secured thereto by suitable means, such as an upsetalong "the edges of the base, of such nature'thatjlittle, if any, compressive force is appliedtolthepearls v during or after attachment of the flanges.)

In assembling the ring, I 'first form a'. strand of pearls by threading a 'plurality of uniform,

apertured pearls 2| onto the string 23'. "Sum Y r an .unbroken annular channeledmember 24 compris-l the appearance of the ring. i

I port between the flanges 26 and 21 with the twist 29 pointed toward an edge of said support. The channel member 24 comprising said support and flanges may be fashioned in the following manner, to facilitate assembly:

The flat band 39 (Fig. 6) from which the base 25 is formed has both of itsedges 3| beveledto acute points. Each of the annular discs 32 and 33 (Figs. 5 and 7), whose central aperture is of the same diameter as the external diameter of the band 30, is provided with a bevel 34 on one face adjacent its inner periphery, leaving a narrow band 35 adjacent its other face. The thickness of the discs. 32 and 33 is governed by design considerations, and their width is preferably. at

least equal to the radius of the pearls 22. The

width of the band is equal approximately to the diameter of the pearls 22 plus-the combined thickness of the discs 32 and 33. The band 30 may be plated as with cadmium or chromium to impart a'silvery finish thereto, which serves. as good reflecting background-for the pearls.

The pearl strand is slipped over the bandv 30 and the annular discs 32 and 33 are also disposed on said band at oppositesides of the strand. If at this time the loop 28 is slightly, too large, its circumference may be reduced by further twisting the ends of the string 23; The beveled edged the band is then upset with any suitable tool, as

for example a burnisher 36, the upset metal being forced against the bevel 34 on the discs, leaving a rounded inner edge 31 on the band.

During upsetting, the ring parts may be laid upon a support,38 with the unattached disc- 33 underneath. Each edge of the ring is upset sepa rately. If the width of the bands is slightly greater than the diameter vof the pearls plus the combined thickness of the discs, as shown in Fig. 8,"a' layer 39 of compressible material, such as a sheet of paper, may be placed under the ring. This will permit the edge of the band not being ups'etto extend below the lower disc 33 substantially to the extent that theedge of the band being upset'projects above the upper disc 32. The ring is then reversed and the other edge of the band upset. r f It will be observed that during upsetting the force exerted by the burnisher 36 is almost wholly parallel to the plane of the discs '32 and 33, and

that, as a result, very little, if any, compressive force isapplied to the pearls 2| either during or afterupsetting;

The ring is then lapped to remove traces of the seam between the base 25v and flanges 26 and 21., and polished to provide a high finish and remove the silvery plate from all exposed portions of the base except that underlying the pearls 2|.

It will be noted that the pearls abut one another, thus concealing the string 23; and the mounting means does not surround the periphery of the individual small pearls in the fashion of present day settings for small gems and like ornamental articles. {As a result of 'this construction,

the reflecting and supporting surfaces are almost wholly spaced from the pearls/thus providing an attractive background which creates the effect of an invisible supporting means and enhances shapes and arrangement of shapes may be employed. For example, elements of different size and the same or different shapes may be employed at random or in regular series of two or more elements; or the ornamental elements may carry ornamental designs thereon to give special ornamental effects. Specific examples of rings embodying these latter forms are shown in Figs. 11 through 14.

In Figs. 11 and 12 the ornamental elements 50 comprise small U-shaped pieces having a top wall 51' with an embossed design, such a flower 52, and apair of integral depending side walls 53 and 54. Aligned apertures 55 are formed in the side walls 53and-54 for receiving the string 56. Since the top wall 5| and side walls 53 and 54 are thin, this type of ornamental element needs a special support, such as is provided by my invention,

which will not compress and distort said elements during mounting. The flanges and base of the ring in Fig. 11 may be constructed and assembled in the same manner as that shown in Figs. 1 through 9. Y

In Figs. 13 and 14 I have shown still another form of element, 60. Thi element comprises a plate 6| which may be fashioned in any shape, as for example with two angularly-diverging legs 62 and 63. Anaperture 64 is substantially centrally disposed to receive a string 65. When a ring constructed in accordance with my invention and including this form of "element is assembled, an unusual striated ornamental effect will be produced on the surface thereof.

It Will thus be seen that there is provided a device and method for making the same in which the several objects of this invention are achieved, and which is well adapted to meet the conditions 'of practical use.

As various possible embodiment might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawing is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A ring comprising a channel shaped annular member, said member comprising a rigid unbroken annular band and a pair of annular flanges, at least one, of said flanges being non-integral with said band, means to permanently attach said non-integral flange to said band, a plurality ofornamental element disposed in said member, said elements having apertures therein, and a flexible string threaded through the apertures; said string comprising a loop whose inner circumference is less than the outer circumference of said flanges.

2. A ring comprising a channel shaped annular member, said member comprising a rigid unbroken annular band and a pair of annular toff pennafiently' attach said "non-integral flange "to said band, a pluralltyko'f ornamental elements,

each of said elements having an'aperture, and a "flexible "s rality of ornamental elements,'each of said elements having an aperture, and a flexible String threaded through saidelements, the ends of said M ng-threaded throughsaid elements, ,th ends or said -stririgbelng permanently joined pertu sis-antennas extending perpen: putwa' y ir'om opposite edges of said efsaid flliiigesfbeing non -integral'with sarcasm-means t'o permanently attach said non lntegral flange to said band, a plu string being permanently joined to form a conv tinuous loop of ornamental elements, the inner circumference of said loop being substantially equal to the outer circumference of said band and less than the outer circumference of said flanges, said 100p being disposed between said flanges. e

integral depending side walls, said sidewalls having aligned apertures therein, and a flexible string assing through said apertures, the ends of saidstring-being' permanentlyjoinedto form a continuous loop o'f said ornamental elements, the inner circumference'of said loop being equal to the-outer ci'rcumference of said band and less lthan theouter circumferenceof said flanges, an

said non-integral flange "being upset to perma- .n'ently attach said flange to1ls'aidband and firmly but lightly'ipress said elements be'tween" said flanges. 1 I 1 "-7. 5A ring'geoniprsinga channel shaped annular "m mber; said member comprising a rigidunbroken annular band andi'a pair of annular flanges of uniform thicknes extending perpendicularly outwardly from opposite edges of said band, at least one of said flangesbeing non-integral with said band, a plurality of similarly shaped plates each having an aperture therethrough, and a flexible string passing through said aperture s,- the ends of said string being permanently joined to form a continuous loop of said plates, all of said plates being similarly arranged von. said loop, the inner circumference ofsaid loop 4. A ring comprising a channel shaped memher, said member comprising a rigid unbroken annular band of uniform thickness and a pair of annular flanges of uniform thickness extending perpendicularly outwardly from opposite'edges of said band, at least one of said flanges being nonintegral with said band, a plurality of ornamental elements of uniform size and shape, each of said elements having an aperture, and a flexible string threaded through said elements, the ends of said string'being permanently joined to form a continuous loop of ornamental elements, the inner circumferenceof said loop being substantially equal to the outer circumference of said band and less than the outer circumference of said flanges, said 100p being disposed between said flanges, an annular peripheral portion of said band adjacent said non-integral flange be-' ing upset to permanentlyiattach said flange to said band and firmly but lightly press said ele-. ments between said flanges.

5. A ring comprising a channel shaped annular member, said member comprising a rigid unbroken annular band and a pair of annular flanges of uniform, thickness extending perpendicularly outwardly from opposite edges of said band, at least one of said flanges being non-integral with said band, a plurality of pearls of uniform size each of which has an aperture therethrough, and. a flexible string threaded through said pearls, the ends of said string bebeing equal to the outer circumference of said band andless than the outer circumference ,of said flanges, an annular peripheral portion of said band adjacent said non-integral flange being upset to permanently attachsaid flange to said band and firmly but lightly press said plates between said flanges.

8. A ring comprising a channel shaped annular member, said member comprising a rigid annular band of uniformthickness and a pair of annular ing permanently joined to form a continuous loop of pearls, the inner circumference of said loop being substantially equal to the outer circumference of said band and less than the outer circumference of said flanges, said loop being disposed between said flanges, an annular peripheral portion of said band adjacent said non-integral flange being upset to permanently attach said flange to said band and firmly but lightly press said pearls between said flanges.

6. A ring comprising a channel shaped annular flanges of uniform thickness extending perpendicularly outwardly from opposite edges of said band, at least one of said flanges being non-integral with said band, a plurality of apertured fragile-ornamental elements of uniform size, and a flexible string threaded through said elements, the ends of said string being permanently joined toform a continuous loop of ornamental elements, the inner circumference of said loop being substantially equal to the outer circumference of said band, said p being disposed between said flanges, the outer edge of said non-integral flange lying adjacent said bandbeing beveled, an annular portion of said band adjacent said bevel being upset to lie against said bevelv whereby to permanently attach said flange to said band and firmly but lightly press said eleertured fragile ornamental elements onto a' string, disposing the loop of ornamental elements thus formedaround a rigid annular band, disposing annular flanges around said band on ,both sides of said loop with one surface of each of said elements each including a I top wall and a pair of annular pel'iphl al {JOl tiOHOf-Sdid band adj acent' iflanges. in abutment with said ornamental ,elements, and'then upsetting the edges of said band thus formed around a rigid annular band having beveled edges, disposing annular flanges, one of whose surfaces adjacent the inner periphery thereof is beveled, aroundsaid band on both sides of said loop with the bevels on said flanges facing outwardly and with the inwardly facing sur faces of said flanges in abutment with said ornamental elements, and forcing the beveled edges of said hand against the bevels of said flanges so .as to lightly but firmly press said elements between said fianges.

- 12. In a method of making a ring of the character described, those steps comprising threading a plurality of apertured fragile ornamental elements onto a string, permanently connecting the ends of the string, disposing the loop of ornamental elements thus formed around a rigid annula band, said band havingone annular peripheralflangetherearound, disposing an annular flange around said band and inabutment with one side of said loop of ornamental elements, and then permanently attaching said flange to said band in such manner as to lightly but firmly press said elements between said flanges.- I I ISRAEL ROSKIN; 

